In March, LUXUO explored how the fashion industry was being reshaped by the exit of long-standing creative directors, an impending economic downturn, and declining sales pushing brands to diversify their offerings. As we move through the year, these shifts continue, with major shake-ups defining the landscape: Hedi Slimane’s departure from Celine, Kim Jones leaving Fendi, Sarah Burton’s move from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, Alessandro Michele’s transition to Valentino, and Haider Ackermann succeeding Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford after just one year. Perhaps the most surprising change came with Virginie Viard’s sudden exit from Chanel in June, followed and the opportunity to redefine the brand’s iconic legacy. Amidst these upheavals, LUXUO also noted how the struggle to maintain profitability has increasingly centered on the beauty industry. Now, lets turn our focus to fashion brands looking inward, reassessing and refining their own core offerings to navigate this period of uncertainty. This season’s product launches highlight a shift in focus, as brands hope their timeless designs will resonate and withstand the economic storm.
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New Bags, Classic Motifs
At Dior, the maxicanage motif adorns a series of exquisite leather goods in black or beige-grained leather. The maxicanage is a new iteration of the carnage motif which has long been a symbol of the Dior allure, inspired by the light-colored cane embellishing the Napoleon III chairs in the Maison’s haute couture salons. For the Dior winter 2024/2025 men’s collections, Kim Jones presents the maxicanage on classic Dior creations such as the saddle twin and weekender.
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Similarly at Gucci, one can see the evolution of the GG Marmont silhouette for the label’s fall/winter ‘2024 collection. The revisiting of the brand’s interlocking GG monogram emblem rekindles the brand’s legacy in consumers’ minds and is a nod to past grandeur in times that call for strategic restraint. In the early 1970s, Gucci created a new rounded iteration of its logo, the Gucci Blondie which was then resurrected by Sabato De Sarno and took center stage at the Gucci Cruise 2025 show.
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Touch of Tradition
In the fashion industry, the term “contemporary” has become synonymous with innovation. But perhaps, more than anything, it speaks to the art of reinvention. There is something profound in taking a traditional garment, silhouette, or technique, and breathing new life into it, often through a modern lens. At Tod’s the Tod’s T Vintage was inspired by sneaker designs of the 80s and 90s combined with the signature Tod’s Gommini pebble rubber sole sewn to the wedge and the Tod’s logo is hot stamped on the shoe.
Alexander McQueen revisited Scottish Tartan, a textile used by the late Alexander McQueen himself including the controversial autumn/winter 1995–96 Highland Rape collection. For 2024, Seán McGirr revisited this element of his Maison’s heritage and this time showcased distressed finishes and raw edge details that embody the rebellious spirit of this label’s namesake. Paired with bold statement sling bags, each piece reflected McQueen’s unique ability to blend tradition with an avant-garde twist. Tod’s — with its legacy of elevating sneakers to a symbol of refined craftsmanship, and Alexander McQueen — with its bold reimagining of Scottish tartan, demonstrate how fashion houses are revisiting their iconic signatures to push the boundaries of tradition, bringing timeless elements into a modern context and presenting something fresh to the forefront.
Eye on Accessories
A return to house classics and staples is one thing, but beyond beloved emblems and cherished motifs, maisons also rely on the use of intricate techniques and exceptional craftsmanship. This season saw LOEWE showcase their leather savoir-faire and extraordinary caviar beading. Inspired by antique tapestries and Chelsea porcelain, the Squeeze bag becomes a work of art, featuring songbirds, a beloved dog, exuberant florals, and botanicals, with more than 20,000 beads hand-applied in layers using the ‘Aari’ technique to create a stunning 3D effect. A floral bouquet also adorns the Campo biker boot; each pair requires 360 hours of beading by 12 artisans. The same technique is applied to Toy pumps, a beaded oblong pouch, and a series of beaded charms, including asparagus stalks, a radish, cabbage leaf, and ladybird.
For Winter 2024, Bottega Veneta’s signature bags have been reimagined with “Silky Calf Leather,” a strikingly thin and soft material that mimics the touch and sheen of silk fabric. The Andiamo bag is constructed for the first time in this luxurious leather, incorporating the Maison’s signature intrecciato pocket detail. The sculptural brass knot both adorns and fastens the bag’s braided straps, allowing the Andiamo to be worn across the body or over the shoulder. Meanwhile, the “Hop” bag steps away from the traditional intrecciato craftsmanship to celebrate the supple, geometric silhouette of the leather. Framed with leather trimmings, the Hop maintains its structure while embracing its triangular form, designed to be admired from all angles. Each piece is meticulously crafted by a single artisan over two days, ensuring both precision and artistry.
By revisiting and refining their iconic motifs, techniques, and craftsmanship, brands are forging a path forward—one where heritage meets the demands of the present. Amid this transitional period, fashion is evolving beyond mere survival, embracing adaptation with innovation and vision to redefine signature element that endure.
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