Images: Martin Pauli
Most people are only familiar with the names Patek Philippe, Rolex and brands within the corporate groups (LVMH, Richemont and Swatch). It’s not really surprising because these companies have astronomical budgets and therefore can afford to pay millions on sponsorship deals. In the last decade brand ambassadors have become big business. Celebrities from the film, music and sports sectors receive huge endorsements to be photographed wearing the latest timepieces. Commercially it makes great sense because ultimately these organizations are in the business of making money. For that reason, it is very challenging for small independents to get any exposure. A great example is Martin Pauli owner of Angular Momentum.
My story with dates back nearly a decade when I was doing extensive research for my first book entitled ‘Limited Edition Watches’ His microbrand Angular Momentum which is located in Bern, Switzerland. Martin is a true small-batch watchmaker that specializes in limited edition or unique 1/1 pieces. Many of the timepieces are highly experimental and combine traditional + contemporary techniques. My admiration for his exquisite work was the catalyst for co-creating a watch together called the Hemisphere. This timepiece has a solid bronze 55mm case with inset forged carbon spheres and a skeletonized dial. It was based on Martin’s ‘Blue, Green and Bronze’ and meticulously assembled by Adelaide watch restoration expert Ben Birkett.
As well as being a multi-published author I am also a watch designer. This has led to numerous collaborations with a range of extraordinary craftsmen such as Frederic Leuba, Ruslan Skuitte, Torsten Nagengast and Konstantin Chaykin. Recently I noticed Martin Pauli had created a timepiece called the ‘Yakitsuke Spaceship’. This model inspired me to present an idea to Martin for a watch aptly named the ‘Afterburner’ The concept was to make a 55mm cast iron timepiece with bronze rivets and a crown. I was also very keen to incorporate my signature drilled hand design to create an industrial aesthetic. This perfectly complements the Urushi lacquered cast iron dial. Martin achieved this by employing a refined historical Japanese technique known as ‘Yakitsuke’.
Powering the watch is a Swiss-made self-winding movement sourced from ETA. The Calibre 2824 comprises 25 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Martin selected this mechanism because of its reliability and adaptability. To accommodate the oversize 0.3mm bronze hands the winders (hours/minutes) needed to be a certain length. Functionally the ‘Afterburner’ features hours only hours and minutes because I wanted to maintain a minimalist appearance. It’s also pertinent to mention this is a novelty unique 1/1 piece so isn’t water resistant. Ultimately, this timepiece is an experimental expression of art designed to make a bold impression.
As a perfect finale the ‘Afterburner’ is presented on a black rubber textured strap (reclaimed from shoe soles) with a solid bronze buckle.
